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Storage shed ramps are a part of life that people don’t think about until they need to use them. Kind of like a bath but not as serious. Not being able to use the toilet has certain catastrophic consequences, while not being able to use a shed ramp means taking the mower to the garage, where its biggest crime will be competing with the car for valuable storage space.
Shed ramps are built with stirrups on the edge from the shed wall below the door, to the ground. These boards are called stringers. I don’t know why they are called stringers, they just are. I know the rope isn’t very strong, surely not strong enough to hold a lawn mower, so it’s not coming from the rope. But when you put a board on its edge and use it to support a ramp or ladder, it’s called a stringer. Anyway, after running the stringers from the shed floor level to the ground level and then laying deck boards on them, you will have a shed ramp. It’s that easy. The only hard part is calculating the slope of the shed ramp and the resulting cuts in the wood stringers.
A good shed ramp has the perfect slope. Not so steep that you have to check to see if you’re pushing the mower off a cliff and not so shallow that you stick out into the yard enough to set up lawn chairs and have a barbecue. The perfect slope is about 3 inches of height for every foot of travel. What this means is that the floor of a shed that is 12 inches off the ground would have a ramp that is 4 feet long. Of course this slope is purely personal. I’ve had good luck with that and that’s why I’m preaching it as the “shed ramp slope law”. So after determining the slope of your shed ramp, you can start figuring out how to cut all of those angles so that the rails of the ramp sit flat on the ground and so that the top end of the rails sit flush against the ground. shed. wall.
The trick to making these cuts correctly is to have someone else do the math for you and then use their knowledge to build your ramp. Using a graph that has all the ramp slopes worked out is one of the easiest ways to get a perfectly sloped shed ram. Simply calculate the floor to floor height and then follow the diagram to learn the lengths of the stringer cutouts. Then mark the cuts on your 2×6 board and cut.
After cutting the first stringer, you should test it by placing it against the shed wall and checking the cuts to see if they lie flat on the ground and against the shed wall. Remember to make sure the ground where the shed ramp stringer touches the ground is flat and level, otherwise the ramp will not sit flat on the ground. Once you are happy with the first rail of the ramp, you will take it and trace its outline on the other rails and then cut them.
Once the rails for the ramp are cut, you are ready to screw them to the ledger board that will hold the rails to the wall of the shed. They are screwed in before you attach everything to the shed wall so that the connection between the stringer and stringers is stronger than if you screwed them to the stringer after you attached the stringer to the shed wall. Once the stringer and stringers are screwed together, you are ready to use 3″ long lag screws to screw the stringer board to the shed wall. Use 1 lag bolt approximately every 12 inches and start 4 inches from the end of the stringer. This will give you 4 bolts on a 4′ wide shed ramp.
The final step is to lay the deck boards. I would recommend using the 2×6 lumber for deck boards, such as a deck on the patio. Simply attach them to the stringers with 2- to 3-inch-long screws on each stringer. Deck boards should have at least 1/8″ gap between boards so water can run down the ramp and also so boards can expand and contract with weather.
When all the deck boards are installed, you are ready to use the new shed ramp. As simple as it is, there is a certain satisfaction to rolling your lawnmower down a ramp that you built. I would recommend trying the ramp just a few times because getting the mower in and out of the shed more than 4 times in a day constitutes a need to go to the bathroom.