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In December, we travel across the ocean to talk about one of nature’s gifts: champagne! Champagne is a wine region in France, so only wines from this area can properly be called Champagne. Any “champagne” produced outside this region in France must be referred to as sparkling wine.
No other drink in the world symbolizes a celebration better than champagne or sparkling wine. These drinks help usher in the New Year, as well as weddings, birthdays, promotions, and any other special occasions. This time of year is when approximately 80 percent of this drink is consumed. At holiday parties, my catering company likes to set up a soda station near the front door, greeting guests with a festive glass of champagne.
wine talk
The Champagne region of France is located about 90 miles northeast of Paris. In the late 17th century, French champagnes were formally recognized as a new style of wine. The unique effervescence of champagne is due to the cooler climate of northern France. The grapes from this region were generally not fully ripened and fully fermented in the fall, when wines are traditionally placed in barrels. During the winter the champagne was dormant and then began to ferment once more in the spring. This led to a fizzy drink that was cloudy, due to spent yeast floating in the barrels. At the time, this was considered an inferior product.
The French from the Champagne region created a new process to clarify their drink. Instead of traditional barrel aging and storage, champagne was the first wine to be stored and aged in individual corked bottles. This new process, Methode Champenois, (still in use today) involves inverting the bottles on racks and gently turning the bottles (stirring), to help the yeast collect in the neck of the bottle.
The neck of the bottle is then immersed in a brine solution which freezes the yeast section. The bottle is popped to expel the yeast plug (disgorging), resulting in a clear drink. The champagne is then topped off with still (unfermented) wine that is kept in reserve for this purpose. A small amount of yeast and sugar is added to the bottle, then it is corked. This starts the second fermentation process. As the yeast consumes the sugar, a small amount of alcohol is created, as well as carbon dioxide. This allows the bottle to recover its fizz.
Today, there are around 100 champagne houses in the Champagne region that source grapes or grape juice from more than 15,000 local growers. Given the cooler climate, the faster maturing grape varieties are used exclusively in this region; Chardonnay (used exclusively in Blanc de Blancs), Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (used with Chardonnay in Blanc de Noirs and Roses). There are three different methods of producing champagne; the traditional Champenois method where wines are fermented in individual bottles, the Charmat process where wines are fermented in large steel vats, and thirdly, the artificial carbonation process where carbon dioxide is injected into the wine, which is the most inexpensive (and can cause headaches). ). Quality champagnes cost more due to the winery’s use of higher-quality grapes, blending of aged still wines, and the cost of storing bottled champagne for years before release.
There are three different styles of champagne or sparkling wines, ranging from light to medium to full body (depending on the amount of time the yeast stays in contact with the wine). Additionally, sparkling wine sweetness levels range from Brut (dry) to Extra Dry (semi-sweet) to Doux (sweet).
Food and wine pairings
As mentioned, the holidays are when most sparkling wines are consumed. They tend to be food friendly due to their higher levels of acidity. This refreshing drink is an ideal snack (lighter style is best) or can be used during a meal (heavier, more yeasty styles). They tend to go well with spicy and savory dishes. When served as an appetizer, my caterer tends to pair the lighter style Sparklings with sushi, smoked salmon canapes, garlic shrimp crostini, spicy chicken satate, and grilled ahi tuna skewers with wasabi aioli. . They also pair well with goat cheese and semi-soft white cheeses that offer mild flavors.
Sparkling wines have been house favorites for years. Personal California favorites that I recommend include Schramsberg and Domaine Carneros, which we just visited last October. On the French side, a smaller house that is receiving high praise is Charles Ellner, whose Brut Champagne Seduction ($65) and Brut Reserve ($40) offer excellent value for money. Here are suggestions for local champagne and sparkling wine merchants and their retail prices, which may vary:
selections
$10 range
Pierre Delize Non-Vintage (NV) Blanc de Blancs – France – $7
Domain Ste. Michelle (NV) Brut Columbia Valley – Washington State – $12
Jaume Serra Cristalino Brut Nature – Spanish Sparkler – $10
Rotari Brut – Italian sparkling wine (not from the Asti region) – $12
Daniel Pardiac Brut Blanc de Blancs – France – $12
$25 – 40 rows
Roederer Estate (NV) Brut – Anderson Valley, CA – $22
Domaine Carneros Brut Carneros – Napa Valley, CA – $25
Schramsberg Brut Blanc de Noir – Napa/Sonoma Counties, CA – $30
Joseph Perrier Brut – France – $26
Bollinger NV Brut – France – $40
Charles Ellner Brut Reserve – France – $40
Bob Kovacs of The Wine Seller in Geneva reminded me of Winston Churchill’s famous quote: “Champagne, in defeat you need it, in victory you deserve it.”
Happy holidays and health!