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From a geographical map, Rwanda, the tiny country in eastern and central Africa, seems almost shocking because of the collective grip of the giant neighbors that surround it. Uganda is pushing from the north, the Democratic Republic of the Congo pushing to the west and Tanzania pulling from the east. On the southern side of the country is Burundi, a neighbor more or less like a twin sister, considering its physical size and shared history.
Rwanda is a perfectly beautiful country. It is characterized by steep, rolling hills, deep valleys, and fascinating savannah. The landscape is simply stunning!
It is said that a Pygmy people of hunter-gatherers were the original settlers of this region. These are the ancestors of the Twa people. The descendants of this aboriginal group currently constitute 0.25% of the total population of Rwanda, estimated at around 9 million people.
Different Bantu-speaking groups later joined the Twa, arriving at different times. These latter groups are descendants of the better known Hutu and Tutsi. Due to the terrible conflicts and the apparent split between Hutu and Tutsi, many have come to assume that they are different ethnic groups. However, the Hutus and the Tutsi speak the same language; in addition to sharing many social and cultural practices. In fact, social scientists differ in their opinions about whether they are actually different ethnic groups. The most significant distinction appears to have been on the basis of one’s occupation and social class rather than one’s ethnicity. In its early days, those who cultivated the land and practiced agriculture were the masses and were considered Hutu, while the herders who raised cattle formed the elite and were identified as Tutsi.
In the early days, everyone paid sworn allegiance to the same king and identity as Hutu or Tutsi was not fixed. For example, a person considered Tutsi would lose their livestock (wealth) to some disease. This loss of wealth would revert their status to Hutu. And similarly, a Hutu who worked harder and acquired cattle would gain status and move up the social ladder to become a Tutsi. That was then. This harmless social distinction ended with the beginning of colonization. It began to become a fixed ethnic label as physical characteristics that separated the 2 groups were sought.
After the Berlin Conference of 1885, Germany colonized Rwanda. A little later, in 1918, Belgium took over after winning a League of Nations mandate. Unfortunately, as with many colonial powers of the time, the divide-and-conquer philosophy was an attractive tool. The Belgian style of indirect rule meant that they had to divide the general population in order to rule easily. Therefore, they sought to magnify the differences between the groups. The ethnicity tag provided a perfect opportunity. For example, in 1933 identity cards were introduced. These cards classified one according to ethnic group. In addition to being an identity tool, it only served to widen the already existing gap between the groups.
Rwanda achieved political independence in 1962, with Gregoire Kayibanda as Prime Minister. But the ethnic tensions did not end. Just one year after independence, in 1963, clashes broke out, resulting in thousands of deaths, mostly Tutsi civilians. Many others fled as refugees to neighboring countries.
Despite social and political instability, Rwanda was able to overcome the challenges of being a modern state and make progress. As a travel destination, Rwanda was able to claim its rightful place on the tourist map. Gorilla tracking in the Virunga mountains was Rwanda’s main tourist attraction. And until the early 1990s, Rwanda remained firmly in the travel supplement of major travel magazines and travel agency brochures.
the year 1994
Rwanda grabbed world headlines in a nasty way in the early months of 1994. The plane carrying the presidents of Rwanda and Burundi mysteriously crashed, killing both. This triggered what is known as the 1994 Rwandan genocide. Between April and July 1994, almost 800,000 people, mostly Tutsis, were killed. Eventually, the Tutsi-dominated rebel group captured the capital and installed a new government.
The past is behind, the future is ahead
Since 1995, Rwanda has made tremendous strides toward recovery, slowly, steadily, and amazingly. And in terms of travel, tourists return to see the mountain gorillas of the Virunga Mountains and the elephants of the Akagera National Park. Currently, some 40,000 tourists visit Rwanda annually.
High on the list of tourist attractions in Rwanda are the mountain gorillas. Gorillas share 97% of their genes with humans. Those who have had the opportunity to see the gorillas cannot find words to describe the sensation. No wildlife guide or study can prepare you for this moving experience. Gorillas are huge. The male can be three times larger than the average man. However, by comparison, they are so remarkably peace-loving!
‘In the heart of Central Africa, so high that one shivers more than one sweats, there are great ancient volcanoes that rise almost 15,000 feet and are almost covered by a lush, green jungle: the Virungas.’ These words were written by Dian Fossey. The story of the Virunga mountain gorillas is not complete without that of Dian Fossey. He lived among the gorillas and died trying to protect them. In fact, the few mountain gorillas we have today survived thanks to the efforts of Dian Fossey.
Dian Fossey left her home in Kentucky to live among gorillas in Rwanda. He wanted to understand and preserve them. He advocated for the protection of mountain gorillas from hunters who killed them for their fur, hands, and head. By doing this, she became an enemy of the hunters. In 1985, she was murdered in the park. She is buried at Karisoke, the primate research center she had established in Virungas.
Fossey’s efforts and his subsequent death were not in vain. The Virungas remain the last outpost of the mountain gorillas. It is estimated that half of the world’s population of mountain gorillas, currently 740, resides in Virungas. Before his death, he wrote a book: Gorillas in the Mist. It was published in 1983. A biographical film based on his story and this book was released in 1988. The film generated positive publicity which helped the case for conservation of mountain gorillas. International awareness was raised about the plight of the rare mountain gorillas.
There are 5 groups of habituated gorillas that can be seen by tourists. Each group can be visited by a maximum of 8 people per day and the visit lasts only 1 hour.
The trek can last from 1 to 6 hours and ascend to altitudes above 7,500 feet. The terrain is rough and sometimes muddy. Although the hike is physically demanding, the beauty of the forest and surrounding landscape make it worthwhile and fun. Once the gorillas are located, all fatigue is forgotten, as the experience is often described as the most profound natural history experience in the world. Cameras and lots of high-speed film are recommended. It can rain a few minutes beforehand; therefore, waterproof clothing is a good essential, including zip lock bags for cameras and film. It is important to drink a lot of water.
Permits are issued by the Office Rwandaise du Tourisme et des Parcs Nationaux (ORTPN)/The Rwanda Tourism Board, in Kigali or Ruhengeri.
As well as being home to mountain gorillas, the Virungas themselves are a sight to behold. As you walk through the foothills of the mountains, you have a panoramic view that is simply breathtaking.
Akagera National Park
Akagera National Park is located on the eastern side of Rwanda, on the border with Tanzania. The park is home to swamps and lakes that follow the course of the Akagera River, which is part of the source of the Nile.
The park has big game. Elephants and buffalo are easily seen roaming the lakes for a drink. You will also see giraffes and zebras in the savannah and a variety of antelope. Notable among antelope is the world’s largest antelope, the Cape eland. If lady luck smiles at you, it will not be difficult to see the leopard, the lion and the spotted hyena. And with the lakes and swamps, hippos and crocodiles complete the list of residents.
Nyungwe National Park
Nyungwe National Park is the largest montane forest in all of East and Central Africa. The park is spread over 1,000 square kilometers through the hills of Rwanda on the southeast side. This park has a very rich and unique diversity in terms of flora and fauna. The forest has more than 200 different types of trees.
Nature lovers are drawn to Nyungwe for the primates and birds. The forest is home to 13 species of primates, including the chimpanzee, our closest living relative. It is here in Nyungwe too that you will find more than 300 species of birds. The pleasure of visiting Nyungwe is enhanced by a network of well-maintained walking trails that allow the visitor to enjoy the beauty of the forest. Trails lead to waterfalls and viewpoints. There is also a rest house and a campground along the way. Although Nyungwe can be visited as a day trip, it is recommended that you allot at least 2 days of your itinerary to get the real feel.
Lake Kivu
Lake Kivu is an inland sea surrounded by steep terraced hills along the border with the Democratic Republic of the Congo. It is the largest of the many bodies of fresh water that abound in the valleys of Rwanda. Three towns, Gisenyi, Kibuye and Cyangugu are lined up along the lake. Gisenyi, being the most developed for travelers, is located less than 1 hour from Parc des Volcans. Kibuye is south of Gisenyi and Cyangugu, at the southern end of the lake, is very close to Nyungwe Forest. The 3 villages are connected by a road. There is also a boat rental service on the lake that connects the 3 towns.
The main cities of Rwanda
Kigali
Kigali is the capital city of Rwanda. The city is located right in the center of the country. It is also the most important business center and port of entry. There is an efficient international airport and reliable road transport connecting it to neighboring countries.
Kigali has a variety of hotels to suit all tastes. It is one of the safest African capitals and is blessed with a moderate high-altitude climate. It is centrally located, so most tourist sites are within a 3-hour drive from Kigali.
The main form of public transportation in Kigali and Rwanda in general are shared taxis that link the different cities and towns in the country. For long-distance road trips to neighboring countries, coach services are available.
But they are
Butare was the largest and most important city in Rwanda before 1965, when it lost to Kigali, a more central city 135 km to the north, as the capital of independent Rwanda. Today it is the site of several academic institutions, including the largest university in the country. It is still considered as the intellectual and cultural pulse of Rwanda.
However, Butare’s most prominent tourist attraction is the magnificent National Museum, which houses perhaps the best ethnographic collection in East Africa.
When is the best time to visit Rwanda and track gorillas?
Rwanda is a destination for the whole year. However, gorilla tracking and other forest walks are less demanding when undertaken during the drier European winter months, which is the best time for bird watchers, as Palearctic migratory birds supplement resident species. to create a paradise.