General information

Green anoles are the most commonly seen anole lizards in captivity. They are regularly exported from Florida and neighboring states. They’re cheap to buy, but contrary to popular belief, they’re not really ideal for a beginner. Green anole lizards are temperamental with their environment and require the correct temperature, humidity, and environment to stay healthy. They are a short-lived lizard, averaging around 4 years of age in captivity, however they have been known to live up to 10 years. Adult males are larger than females, reaching about 20 cm, females only 15 cm. Many people call them ‘chameleon lizards’, due to their ability to change colour. Unlike chameleons, however, they can’t actually change their color to match their surroundings. However, they will turn a darker green/brown when stressed or sunbathing. The darker color will raise your body temperature faster when sunbathing; once they reach their optimum temperature they will start to turn green again. Most anole lizards are communal species living in highly populated areas of perhaps hundreds of individuals. Males are very aggressive towards each other when confined to a small terrarium with several females. However, a larger terrarium with a ratio of 1 male to 5 females is ideal.

Accommodation

It has been published and said many times that green anoles can live in a small terrarium with minimal requirements. I must stress that this is far from the truth, and will lead to a short-lived, unhappy, and unhealthy pet lizard. Although this is a small species of lizard, they are incredibly active and curious creatures. They need to regulate their temperature and have access to the UVA and UVB rays normally missed by the sun. Humidity is another important factor, this will help shed their skin and, in general, will help the lizard’s health.

It is recommended that one male be kept with a minimum of three females. Alternatively, if he only wants two or three animals, buy females. Green anoles are a communal species and must be kept in groups. Keeping just one specimen will deprive it of the much-needed stimulation offered by the surrounding lizards. An ideal group consists of one male to five females. This size group should be housed in a 90 cm long x 90 cm high x 45 cm wide terrarium. The bigger the terrarium, the more you will enrich the life of your lizards. A larger group of two males to 10 females should be kept in a 120cm long x 90cm high x 45cm wide terrarium.

Many keepers choose to house their green anoles with other species, such as brown anoles (Anolis sagrei) and numerous species of day gecko (Phelsuma sp.). This is not recommended for several reasons. Brown anoles, for example, are more robust than green anoles and will dominate the terrarium. It may not be so obvious, but brown anoles will dominate the higher ground in the terrarium, have first place under the basking site, and may even push green anoles to the side when feeding. Day geckos can be quite aggressive and may bite green anoles. Several geckos are also nocturnal, which means that at night these geckos can literally walk on top of sleeping green anoles. This will add a lot of stress to the green anole and should be avoided at all costs. However, there is one animal that I think will add use to a green anole tank; which is an American green tree frog (Hyla cinerea). These are nocturnal frogs that will help eliminate any uneaten insects at night, they cohabit with green anoles in the wild and require the same fluctuations in temperature and humidity.

Green anoles, when kept in an optimal environment, will reproduce easily; and therefore will need a deep substrate that is easy to dig. Potting soil is ideal and is completely natural. With this substrate, it is also possible to place live plants directly in the substrate instead of potting them inside the terrarium. It is important to balance the planting and decoration with the space. Green anoles often like to get out into the open along sticks and branches and on open leaves to bask in the sun and get a good look at their surroundings. However, being able to hide in a bush for cover is also a must. If you use live plants, be sure not to use anything that is toxic to eat or releases toxic fumes.

Heating and Lighting

As already mentioned; green anoles are a diurnal species and will bask in the sun. Therefore, they need a place to bask in the sun to reach their optimal temperature and a light that emits both UVA and UVB rays. Ideally, 2-3 basking sites should be established in your enclosure. These should simply be 60W spotlights placed approximately 8″ away from where the lizard will bask. By placing more than one basking spot in the enclosure, you will allow the lizards to choose their favorite spot and allow multiple lizards to bask. sunbathe in the same place at the same time, as you would in nature.

Spotlight bulbs can be replaced with UV spotlight bulbs. However, providing several of these is a very high ongoing cost that is not necessary. Instead, place a UV light strip across the top of the enclosure. It should be as long as your cabinet will allow, with a reflector behind it so UV rays don’t go in the wrong direction. UV bulbs should be replaced every 6 to 8 months, regardless of whether or not they are still emitting light.

Do not use heat mats or heat rocks with green anoles. They are completely unnatural and serve no purpose. If additional heat is needed during the evening hours, an infrared bulb will work just fine.

humidity and water

Coming from Florida and neighboring states, a high humidity range is a must. An ideal range is 60-70%, although fluctuations both ways will rarely harm the lizard. This can be accomplished in several ways.

First, a large bowl of water placed as close to a heat source as possible will help with overall humidity. A better step is to add air bubbles, commonly used in aquariums for fish. The bubble effect will continuously circulate the water and blow small water vapors into the air. Similarly, a small waterfall will give the same effect.

Offering plants like bromeliads is another way to increase humidity. These plants retain water within pockets at the base of the leaves, allowing a greater surface area of ​​water to evaporate. They are also a great addition to a display terrarium.

Spraying the terrarium with cold water once a day, preferably mid-morning, will certainly help to maintain humidity while also allowing the anole lizards to drink any water droplets that collect on leaves or other surfaces. If you have a larger budget, a timed misting system will be perfect for when you’re not around and would like to mist the terrarium at regular intervals. These are getting quite inexpensive and are a perfect addition to a wonderful anole display tank. A word of advice though; Direct the spray nozzles away from the front of the terrarium, as the spray will obstruct the view of the terrarium and the glass will need to be cleaned more frequently.

Food and feeding

Green anoles are predominantly insectivorous (they eat insects). However, I say mainly because they are also known to eat pollen, nectar, and other tasty liquid-type fruits. They might not eat a banana, for example, but they can lick up the juices. Try offering your anole some of these tasty fruit options, if he eats them, great.

Offering a variety of insects will stimulate the anoles’ natural feeding responses and help your animal’s overall health. Just as humans need a balanced and varied diet, anole lizards need it too. Don’t simply offer the same shackles all the time. Although there is not the best selection of food available in the UK, there is still enough to meet your anole’s needs. Offer a mix between crickets, small lobsters, mealworms, wax worms, small earthworms, small roaches, flies, and even moths, butterflies, and spiders that you find in your own home. Giving a variety will not only offer a more balanced and nutritious diet, but it will also cause the anole to adapt its hunting methods for each food item. An anole lizard will not have to chase a wax worm, but will run like mad to chase a fly or long-legged spider. This will give your anole a chance to exercise and will help its overall health and longevity.

It is important to supplement the diet with calcium and mineral powders. This should not be done every take, but at least once every two or three takes. An ideal dust to dust is Repton, a dust specially formulated for insectivorous lizards. As long as this is combined with the right foods and UV rays, your anole should be perfectly healthy.

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